Friday, February 20, 2004

Americans in China?

Meghan and I went to another Carrefour today (the huge supermarket - or the hypermarket as they call it). I made a point of finding the international foods aisle this time. There was a large Mexican section and a large Chinese section. And smack dab in the middle of the Chinese section were Mississippi Brand blueberry muffins and cherry cheesecake. Huh?! Apparently, the only two American items didn't warrant their own American section. But why with the Chinese? And no, there was no peanut butter, much to my dismay.

I always make a point of going to a grocery store in every country I visit - just to see how the products and selection are different. I'm going to have to make sure to check the international foods sections in all the French grocery stores I go to now.

Site Update

Added some links to the (duh) Links page.

Thursday, February 19, 2004

Little Differences - French Worklife

Finally - I've been meaning to write about this for awhile. Joelle (I have to get in the habit of calling Madame "Joelle" now since she finally told us to - a month after we got here!). Anyway, Joelle asked me last week how much vacation time Americans get. I told her I get 2.5 weeks to use as I please plus 10 government holidays. She was dumbfounded - the French get 5 weeks of vacation plus approximately the same holidays and she doesn't even think that's enough. So we got to talking about it. As it turns out, the current law states that the standard French work week is 35 hours, down from 39 a couple years ago. The reasoning behind the policy change was that companies could hire more employees and reduce unemployment if everyone just worked a little bit less. However, it didn't actually work out that way. According to my French History professor (we also talked about this in class), the upper-class are still working 39 hour weeks and then logging the extra four as comp time so that they end up with 8 weeks of vacation. The lower class are still working 39 hour weeks and only taking 5 vacation weeks because they can't afford to make less. The companies haven't hired more people either because there are all the other added expenses for each employee they hire (benefits, taxes, etc.). So unemployment has stayed about the same and Joelle still has to work 39 hours a week, but only gets paid for 35. She says what her company is doing is totally illegal, but there's nothing she can do about it.

The idea that there's nothing she can do surprises me because there's a strike in France every day (both according to my history prof and my own observation of the nightly news). It seems to be a favorite French pasttime. What's odd to me is that civil servants can strike - postal workers seem to be especially fond of doing so. We can't do that as government employees in the States. What's even more frightening though is that doctors and nurses here can, and do, strike. Yikes...

Back to the original point though - there's a totally different mentality here regarding work. The French love their quality of life. Don't get me wrong - many professionals here are putting in 60 and 70 hour weeks just like Americans do, but certain things are sacred. Stores close for lunch from 12-2 every day and hardly anything is open on Sundays. They wouldn't ask it of the workers to be there 7 days a week. Sometimes I'm amazed there are still cashiers at the supermarket during lunchtime - I wonder if they get paid overtime to work from 12-2.

My professor heard that the French rank fourth in productivity in the world in terms of output per person per hour. He wasn't sure who were the top three countries, but he knew that the French were more productive than the Japanese and attributed it to their better quality of life. One of Ethan's friends made a comment in her journal recently talking about how people in full-time jobs aren't productive during the entire 8-hour work day because they sit in meetings, take breaks, check e-mail, etc. She pointed out that people could work fewer, but more productive, hours and produce the same amount. So why not pay them the same amount based on output instead of time spent? I think that's sort of the setup Jerry has if I understand correctly. Last I checked, he was given a project and six weeks to complete it. They didn't care when he came to work or how he much he worked as long as he got it done by the due date. And if he finished early and got started on another one, better performance reviews for him. I understand that a lot of companies can't do that because people need to be present at the same time for meetings and whatnot, but shouldn't there be some way to adapt the concept? And don't we spend way too much time in meetings anyway?

I've often wondered what would happen if I asked to work part-time at NASA so I could spend the rest of my time focusing on other pursuits of happiness if you will. I could probably get just as much done due in large part to my "working better under pressure" tendency. But then, I had a co-worker in one of my previous co-op tours who only worked part-time at NASA and had another part-time job elsewhere. Great set-up in theory, except I never saw him doing any work when he was around. I got the impression that he wasn't given any team projects because it was assumed he wouldn't have the time to complete them or be around to coordinate with other people - and truly individual projects at NASA are few and far between.

Regardless of working better under pressure or being around at the right times, there's no denying that people are more productive when they are happier. Lenedra Carroll gives an example in one of my favorite books, "The Architecture of All Abundance", of an employee of hers who was not doing well in his personal life and, therefore, not performing well at work. She told him to take as much time off as he needed to sort things out - paid leave. As I recall, he ended up taking six months off, but when he came back, he was able to complete projects in six weeks that normally would have taken at least six months and she considered it a good investment. She not only had a more productive employee, but a happier one as well. I think as Americans, we often forget about the relationship between quality of life and productivity. There seems to be this idea that if you're working longer hours or under more stress that you must be more important to your company or you've martyred yourself for your career and earned some kind of honor. How did anyone ever decide that the work week should be 40 hours anyway?

Wednesday, February 18, 2004

Hmm...

I've taken to staying home on Monday and Wednesday mornings and eating lunch while watching the midday news. I notice especially when I watch tv, but also on the phone, that I rely on watching people's mouths move to understand what they're saying. I have a tendency to watch people's mouths even when they're speaking in English, though I generally have no trouble if I can't see them. In French, however, I really have trouble understanding someone who's not in front of me. I have a much harder time talking to Madame on the phone than I do at home. Or if a piece on TV is being narrated by someone offscreen, I don't get nearly as much as I do if the reporter is shown. Even if I don't know the vocabulary, if I can see their mouths, I can at least figure out where each word starts and ends and imagine how they would be spelled - a narrator is just a jumble of sounds at times.

I have no idea where this comes from. I used to play games when I was younger of seeing if I could read people's lips - or maybe it's just because I'm such a visual learner - then again, maybe I'm just weird. :o ]

Almost Forgot - Valentine's Day

Several people asked me if the French celebrate Valentine's Day - yes, they do. On the walk to the bus station last Saturday morning, every block or so, we saw an elderly man walking home from the flower market in the town hall square with flowers for his wife. Apparently, however, Valentine's Day is only for couples here so you wouldn't, for example, wish a friend Happy Valentine's Day. One girl recounted the story of going to the fish market that morning and after buying her fish, wishing the man a Happy Valentine's Day. He gave her a concerned look as if to say, "I just sold you a fish - it doesn't mean I'm in love with you..." Erin gave Madame candy the night before and explained that in her family, her dad always sends them all candy for Valentine's so she wanted to give people candy this year. Madame seemed to think this was strange, but apparently she wanted us to feel at home because there were bags of marshmallows waiting for us on our beds when we got back from Arles.

Tuesday, February 17, 2004

Site Update

Added photos from Arles and the Carnival de Nice to the Travels page.

There's a lot of stuff I keep meaning to write about - in particular, various discussions on French work time/vacation laws, but then I spent more time than I expected getting the photos up, so that will have to come later... I'm off to art class!

Monday, February 16, 2004

Travels - Carnival de Nice

We had a school day-trip to Nice yesterday to see the Carnival... it's much more family-oriented than Mardi Gras with little kids running around in Disney costumes and people spraying silly string and confetti everywhere. You had to pay to get a decent view or a seat for the parade so I spent most of the day walking around town instead. I went back to the old town market that was filled with people selling all sorts of plants, spices, olives, fruits and vegetables and the marzipan candies that are traditional in Provence.

After lunch with Meghan and Erin, I walked around the old town a bit more before heading toward the parade. On the way, a random guy stopped his bike in front of me and told me (in French) that I have beautiful eyes. I smiled and thanked him and he paused like he was expecting more. I didn't know what to say so I just smiled and he finally nodded and continued on. A bit of an odd moment, but definitely nice. Once I arrived at the parade site, there was no avoiding the silly string. Even the elderly were getting doused. One guy followed me for half a block saying something to me, but I wasn't about to stand there and get sprayed with silly string just to hear what he was saying so I waved at him to go away which he finally did when I went around the corner. Too late - my back was soaked and cold with the blue silly string... I'll have to wash my coat and scarf to get it all off. I caught glimpses of the parade over the barriers as I was walking and got a few pictures before heading into a more modern shopping district where a few stores were actually open. The street performers were out in force. People playing Native American flutes and chanting, a Michael Jackson impersonator with a tape player on full blast, guitar and bass players, and one that I took a picture of moving slowly to music with cats on either shoulder.

After about half an hour there, I headed back to the old town in search of coffee or a snack. On a particularly narrow street corner, a black man confronted me and shoved something in my face for me to sign. I feigned not understanding and he replied "English? Sign this." I don't sign anything - especially if I don't know what it's for. "I'm sorry," I told him. "I'm trying to get somewhere, I have to go." "No. Sign this." I tried to move around him and he put a hand on my shoulder and blocked my path. "Sign this." "No, I'm sorry. I have to go." He wouldn't let me by. This went back and forth a few more times before he finally glared at me and said, "You're a racist." Yeah, well, I'm sorry you feel that way.

That definitely put a damper on the afternoon... sitting by the water for a few minutes listening to some percussionists helped a little bit, but soon it was time to go. I ended up going to bed right after dinner last night since I wasn't really in the mood to do much of anything at that point.

I'll try and get this weekend's pictures up by tomorrow...

Travels - Arles

On Saturday, I took the bus to Arles with Erin, Meghan and Emily. Arles is a very traditional Provence town about an hour and 20 minute drive west of Aix. The ride took us through the French countryside and along many tree-lined boulevards. I love that - straight rows of trees lining streets and driveways leading up to large, peach-colored houses with bright blue shutters... but I digress. We arrived around 11:30 which meant all the monuments were closing for lunch (from 12-2). So we went to find lunch ourselves at a vegetarian restaurant recommended by Erin's travel guide (Eyewitness' Top 10 of Provence). Unfortunately, the restaurant had closed and a new one was just opening in it's place, but we all got great salads - with more than lettuce! - so no complaining here. Afterwards, we walked by the old Roman baths (still closed) and down to the Rhone River for a brief walk.

Our first big stop, and the highlight of my day, was the Roman Amphitheatre. Built around 80 AD, I can't even begin to describe how impressive it is. Most postcards of Arles are aerial shots where it's very clear that the amphitheater takes up a good portion of the town. It's right in the center with shops and apartments on the other side of the streets surrounding it. The amphitheatre itself is 136 meters long and 107 meters wide. There are 60 arches with interconnected staircases and galleries to circulate the 20,000 spectators efficiently. The amphitheatre was used as a fortress in the Middle Ages and towers were added for defense. The 212 houses and 2 churches that it contained were cleared out between 1826 and 1830 and after it was restored, it became a sight for bullfighting, which still continues today. Even with the scaffolding inside for a current restoration project, it was still amazing.

Next we walked by the former Roman theater - more like what I usually think of amphitheaters with the half circle of seats facing a stage marked by pillars. Our final stop was an impressive cathedral and the cloisters which were, unfortunately, under restoration as well. I have no idea how many churches Arles has but it's definitely more than 5 - for a town you can walk across in 15 minutes that's a lot...

Aix experienced much more significant and rapid growth than Arles did, so all of the Roman ruins and even the original town wall in Aix were taken down both to make space and use the stone for new construction. Arles, on the other hand, probably wouldn't be around without the Roman ruins because it relies on the summer tourist season heavily - which is obvious when you see signs pointing to Roman ruins right above one for McDonald's.

Before we caught the bus back, we decided to stop in a small pastry/chocolate shop for Valentine's Day. We each tried one of the pastries - if you're ever in France, try to find a Havane, a white-chocolate cake with chocolate filling... it's heaven. :o )